Colorizing Page
I can provide hard copies of any of these pictures for a nominal fee on glossy paper, A5 size through an agency. My current printer isn't good enough for commercial use. The price depends on what and how, but from around £25.00 per, more if for commercial publication of course.
July 2004
Added a picture to the New Seekers page. Somewhat given up on the picture below. Someone pointed out that colour values were not consistent on a picture this old, and this might explain why I had huge difficulty making sense of the image.

In answer to a question received this week - no there is no magic program that does all this. Just sheer hard work. There is a product called Black Magic by Neural Tek, and I've played with it. Although you might find it useful for small simple jobs, it does not seem to be suited to large scale complex images, and you lacks the masking tools to match Paintshop pro.
Scroll down to see more images

Pickering Yorkshire, around 1900, from a postcard
Colourising vs Tinting.
Recently, I've been acquiring some postcards as new out-of-copyright material, street scenes from the turn of the century, from market towns.
I started to colourise photos about three years ago, after I had worked upon JPEG decompression, and seen how images could be split into components.
When you have a colour image, from a photograph, you can consider the image to contain a number of pixels, or dots, which together form the complete picture. Each colour dot can be represented in different ways, for instance, as a combination of Red Green and Blue. A black and white image only contains one such component, so in effect the red green and blue values are equal.
Another way to consider this, which is more useful, is that there is a component of brightness, varying from dark to bright white, while overlayed is a tint value - a chrominance - that changes such a brightness value into any shade. For instance, a light grey section on an image may be red, green, blue, or may even vary chrominance.
Where the brightness of a section on the image is constant, it is quite likely that the chrominance is also constant, but this is not guaranteed. On the other hand, if we've coloured a vase blue, all the shades of blue will correctly apply to all surfaces - and this will, in theory, look as realistic as a colour photo.
So when a black and white picture is captured for the first time, the result is the same as if a colour photograph was taken, and then had the chrominance removed. The colourising job requires us to feed back chrominance selectively, while keeping the brightness the same.
Several important observations about this - if the brightness on a section is a certain value, then some colours are impossible to have been originally there, because the brightness would give lie to that colour.
For instance, if a woman's dress shows up as a light grey, then no way could that dress have been either white or black, because such a colouring would not produce the brightness level that the black and white image records. Although it's more subtle, certain colour combinations simple look wrong.
When applying colour, there are two elements - hue and saturation. Hue gives the overall colour, e.g. blue/red/yellow etc, and saturation gives the intensity of colour. Natural objects, and indeed most objects anyway, only use a low saturation value. Heavy make up on a face, or a brightly coloured piece of clothing may use a higher saturation, but in the main you always make things look more realistic by using a lower saturation - i.e. tend the image towards monochrome.
The process of colourising requires you select small areas that you think are the same colour, apply the new chrominance, and see if it looks right. If it doesn't you simply try more values. You do not destroy the original image by doing this - because you are adding a component that did not exist. At any time, if you were to take the whole image back to monochrome, you would have your original image back once more.
Comparison against Tinting
Tinting is the process where, at the time of manufacture, a postcard is manually coloured. Although this is a good thing, when in terms of research we are unsure what colour a building, or person's clothes should be, it does mean that card cannot be colourised. The paint applied removes the detail present in the black and white photo, and it is no longer possible to recover the "realistic" detail that we might achieve by our own method of colourising. You might be fooled from a distance by a tinted postcard, but close up, you will see the images are not any more realistic than a painting would be.
Generally I work at a high level of detail, which makes printing possible. I then reduce the image size for web-page usage.
Please ask before using any of these images. my email is (remove red herring) geoff@REDHERRINGgeffers.u-net.com
The first four are photos kindly provided by friends, these are ones with which I am most pleased, and the Henley Regatta image.
Commisions undertaken for colorizing your b/w photo, and restoring torn/marked photos, reasonable rates, contact me (remove red herring) at geoff@geffers.REDHERRINGu-net.com