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Square Cut Chimney & Medusa Wall, Esk Buttress
The valleys of Eskdale and Dunnerdale are probably my favourite areas of the Lakes for a number of reasons. First, it is in stark contrast to the rest of the Lakes and feels far more remote. Second there are some blinding pubs and excellent - if expensive - campsites. And finally Eskdale, at least, is in easy reach of some of the best climbing in the country.
On this occasion we headed up to a little granite outcrop called Bell Stand which is fantastic for an evenings climb. We polished off six routes ranging from VS to E2, and thoroughly enjoyed each and every one of them.
Sitting over a couple of well earned pints in the King George IV later that night we eventually decided to head up to Upper Eskdale and take in a route on Esk Buttress before walking further up the valley to tackle Scafell East for what would be (shamefully) the first time.
The valley of Upper Eskdale could keep a couple of climbers happy for a lifetime. On the way up you walk past the impressive Heron Crag - home of the three star E1, Gormenghast, as well as a number of other minor outcrops.
But it is only when you reach the marsh land at the head of the valley that you realise just how special a place it really is. The barrel shaped Esk Buttress peers down at you from the slopes of Scafell Pike, Cam Spout Crag looks menacingly down from the opposite side, and just up the valley towards Mickledore lies what most believe to be the greatest crag in England: Scafell East.
The climb we settled on was a combination of Medusa Wall and Square Cut Chimney (VS 4c, 4b, 4c, 4a, 4c, 4b) which is described by the guidebook as combining the best of both routes to provide a three star classic VS. We disagreed and thought following the entire line of Medusa Wall would have been a better bet.
Despite our relative disappointment with being stuck in a slimey, chossy, moss-covered corner-come gulley, when just off to our right the line of Medusa Wall proper worked its way through some of the steepest and cleanest rock on the crag, the climb was excellent.
Before long we joined up with Medusa Wall at the top of its third pitch, and the climbing improved exponentially. The top pitches of the climb provided excellent rock and intense exposure but always with nothing less than superb protection. The hugely impressive climb, The Cumbrian (E5, 6a) also tops out in the same place as our route.
In the end we still didn't make it as far as Scafell East due to a lack of time and a strange but definite need for tea and cake. Next time the plan is to pop up to Upper Eskdale with a tent and a few days to spare. That's probably the only way you can do the sheer number of quality routes any justice at all.
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